Today your riparian commentator finds himself by Wandsworth Bridge in Brady’s – a large, light, airy establishment – purveyors of chips, fish and many other forms of marine life. With a range of ales, lagers and beers from Shepherd Neame of Faversham, that noted Brewer of Kent. 

These are of course supported by a fine range of wines, all personally sampled and selected by the eponymous Luke Brady. And, de rigueur* these days, an interesting selection of gins.

The embankment location is terrific all the year round – riverside vistas, shimmering evening light, passing flâneurs and cyclists, the odd helicopter drifting down towards Battersea Heliport, the ever quieter planes well into their descent mode for LHR.

(And it’s even nicer when Wandsworth Bridge is fully illuminated!)

Fishes are grilled or deep-fried; fish soup/chowder and mussels are fine recent additions to the menu; potted shrimps rival those of Morecambe Bay from the writer’s youth … and the crowning glory for this gourmet/gourmand are the oysters – which can only be described as ‘shucking great’.

Puddings are proudly Anglo-traditional – (though why custard should be an ‘optional extra’ for Apple Crumble is reminiscent of optional wing-mirrors and heaters in family cars of the 1960s!)

Any culinary downsides? We Northern purists do wonder about the chips … even though they are deep-fried in dripping – but then nobody’s perfect. Anyway the fine, friendly service banishes any negativity …

All-in-all, Brady’s is a strong and welcome presence on our riverside. We’re very happy that they are here. And they rate 8 out of 10.

To find out what they say about themselves, look up Brady’s here:
(* if only the French had a word for ‘de rigueur‘)


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